By the time the ritual coffee at Joe’s was over on Wednesday, we were in the midst of a sort of Hong Kong (Lamma Island) “spit-rain” without the heat. Consequently, instead of doing another day at the beach, we headed into Wellfleet, well aware that we were a season away from the Wellfleet Oysterfest, but knowing we would find something.
One road lead to the ocean, so we took it, did a quick-read in Frommer’s, and found Mac’s, where we lunched on the picnic tables by the water, near some 50-something French cyclists. No oysters, but scallops – breaded lightly, fried even more lightly, and lobster rolls with a dash – no more – of mayo.
Looking for a space to turn around, we had driven down and around a road on Main Street for about a hundred feet; realizing “The Salty Duck”was actually a pottery shop, we got out to look around. Owner and potter Katherine Stillman’s work is said to have “a free and easy way” about it, and so it does, but even freer and easier is her honor system. If she is not there – and she wasn’t this morning when we visited – you simply write down what you liked/took, then leave the money or fill out a credit card slip.
We left The Salty Duck, poked around a few stores on Main and Commercial, were deciding between the ice cream shop and a fudge shop, when we saw Winslow’s Tavern; upstairs in the Billingsgate Bar, we played Trivia (don’t ask) and ate, yes! Bivalve Molluscs.